Wednesday 24th January
Today we were leaving Richmond and moving nearer to Picton where we were to catch the ferry back to North Island. First up was a quick photo stop to take a few photos of the Cathedral.
It was a beautiful day and as is usual, we opted for the scenic route – another good call indeed. In the guidebooks, there was a recommendation to take a short detour, side trip to Cable Bay – we were so glad that we did. Another bit of twisty road but with amazing views as we descended down to sea level. We were hoping to take a couple of photos and, if we were lucky, find a toilet. What we found was an amazing beach, very swimmable and a lovely café selling great coffee and cakes, of course!
Cable Bay was where the first underground cable was set off for Australia – an achievement of no small magnitude. Sadly, there are no remains of that enterprise on the beach but a sign does tell you about it.
Transmissions using the newly laid cable began in 1876 and was in use until 1917. Since 2001 there has been a 200km fibre-optic cable that connects with Levin in the North Island, in addition to the many cables that run across the Cook Strait.
Sandra:
We returned to the main road and pushed on towards Havelock. Next stop up was the famous Pelorus Bridge – there are two bridges, the road one – must be very strong indeed as there were many logging lorries steaming over it at regular intervals. It was a glorious day and the climbs, twists and turns in and out of valleys were magnificent. We parked up in the Bridge car park – ate our packed lunch and then explored the bridge. There is also a second, pedestrian only bridge and we ambled across, stopping to take some photos of the river gorge below. It certainly wasn’t the height of some of the bridges in either Queenstown or Hanmer Springs but still a decent height. The river is way too shallow to allow jumping off the bridge – a very large cautionary notice explains that some have sadly tried and paid the ultimate price – a sobering thought indeed. There are some steps down from the side of the bridge and you can sit on rocks on the river bank and paddle though if you wish.
We were somewhat early but we pulled into Havelock – the
claim to its existence these days is undoubtedly the marina – it is far bigger
than the town itself. We drove round,
window shopping as to which boat we would like to own. There were some huge, ocean going standard
boats and then all type of smaller boats, yachts and dinghies. A car park full of 4x4 with empty boat
carriers on the back gave testament to the size of the fleet that use that
particular marina.
We topped up with fuel, trying to kill time as the saying goes. Eventually, we pulled up at the motel and, thankfully under trees – it was very hot indeed – we waited for the owner to return at 2pm. Booked in we were directed right to the back of the motel plot – we were very happy, yes up a hill but we were in the car and well away from the road and traffic noise which we had had at the previous motel. It was a fully accessible room again and one of the best equipped. Air conditioning was a bonus and reasonable WiFi too.
Stop 22 | Havelock Garden Motel | 1 night | NZ$165/night
Without doubt one of the best units we’ve had – very well equipped indeed and any unit that has a teapot always gets extra points!
The HDMI sockets on the telly were easily accessible and with a decent WiFi signal we got caught up with the latest series of Vera.
There are a number of boat trips from Havelock but the most popular is the ‘Mail Boat Run.’ Trev and I did this in 1997 and as the name suggests, it takes mail to isolated settlements in the Marlborough Sounds. Back then that was its main purpose, along with groceries. There was a token fee of something like NZ$20 for tourists if memory serves and it was out for a fair portion of the day.
Now the focus is very much on tourism, and it’s over NZ$100 for a half-day trip. More if you opt for lunch etc. We had already discounted it – you can’t do everything sadly.
Sandra:
Another first, well one that we noticed properly, was the warning sign in the apartment advising what to do in the case of an earthquake!! Yes this part of South Island is known for being subject to earthquakes.
A quiet rest up for the rest of the day, a lovely home cooked dinner, some TV, crossword and bed and we slept very well indeed.
Todays journey:
Thursday, 25th January 2024
Sandra:
Today started well with good weather and not too hot. We did not have that far to go but again, along the coastal road – usually high up on side of cliffs, was narrow, twisty and there is a major programme of roadworks to shore up the inevitable subsidence which occurs on a regular basis.
Every guide, whether on line or in print goes on about how scenic this route is – also known as Queen Charlotte Drive – and we hadn’t been away from Havelock ten minutes before our first photo stop, looking back over the water to it.
A bit further along was another view point, this time looking in the opposite direction, out across Mahau Sound. Something caught in my throat as I took this, knowing that in a few hours we would be leaving this stunning, achingly beautiful island:
There was a short inland stretch to follow then a little further along and we stopped again, this time at sea level. There was a timely reminder on a thoughtfully positioned bench. This was getting too much!
We were, by now in the zone for coffee and relief came in the settlement of Momorangi, with a trailer set up in the campsite across the road from the water. As we turned in, the pitch to our left were striking camp. Two, count em, two, motorboats on trailers with accompanying pick-up trucks and tents, the floor space of which equalled a small town. Not sure how the Caravan Club would cope with that!
Coffee procured; we adjourned across the road to look out over the water.
We drove along, up and down valleys once more and then eventually arrived at the Picton Lookout point – a commanding view indeed of the harbour and all that goes on. Ferries, freight, trains, lorries etc were plying their trade and a cruise ship was moored up too. Our final selfie on South Island accomplished, we moved down to the port and checked in for the ferry. We had booked assistance on boarding the ferry so we were given a lovely pink door hanger style label to hang on the rear view mirror – ‘Easy access required.’ The humour did not escape me!
The lifts were only a few steps away from the car so was glad not to be holding anyone up – there always seems to be a rush upstairs to bag the best seat, get in the queue for the café etc. We opted to go right up to Deck 10 – the observation deck and with great sadness, I mentally waved goodbye to South Island. It was an emotional moment and perhaps indicates how much this place and this trip has come to mean to me.
It so happened we were on the same ship as the one we came over on so we had an idea of the layout and went straight to the eatery at the bow – or pointed end for the less nautically minded.
It didn’t feel right though and we decided to make our way upstairs to the open deck for the departure. The South Island had given us so much joy, so many memories that it was only right to endure the emotionally painful departure. I was trying not to blub but up on deck there it was just too much. We had a weep and a hug and vowed there if it were at all possible, we’d be back. Gawd I love this country.
Final photos taken etc, we passed the rest of the crossing sitting in various parts of the boat, coffee or tea drunk and it was soon time to return to the boat and drive off and into Wellington City. We had fortunately managed to find a pretty central location. 10 minutes later and we were in the motel car park.
The crossing over flew by, the return seemed to take for ever and I was glad when we finally arrived in Wellington, trying to look ahead to the next couple of weeks or so. There was still so much more to see.
Sandra:
I was somewhat taken aback to realise that for, thankfully, only the second time, we were not in a ground floor apartment. We were given a somewhat dubious Hobson’s choice – a ground floor apartment but no kitchen or a 1st floor apartment with a kitchen – the logic in that failed to impress me and it still does. The manager, thankfully having seen my concern – helpfully carried all the luggage up himself. The apartment was clean, tidy but very basic kitchen. Part of me kind of regretted not saying let’s have a ground floor, we are here for 2 nights and we could have eaten takeaways. Anyway, due to the late hour, we opted for a McDonalds that evening anyway. A quick stock up at the local wine shop and we returned to the apartment. It was a very hot night and no air conditioning was not helpful. We did have a little balcony at the rear so could open that up until the insects started to make an appearance. A reasonable night’s sleep and we would be ready for the tour of Wellington the next day.
Stop 23 | Marksman Motor Inn | Wellington | 2 nights | NZ$165/night
The motel was located on the one-way system surrounding the Basin Reserve – I have fond memories of this. In 1997 Trev and I were here to see England beat New Zealand in the 2nd Test of a three match series in cricket. It’s a great ground, there’s a stand but much of the surround is still grass banks. I remember that rain delayed the start but when it finally got going we were amused to see a group of fellas appear with a three seater sofa which they positioned on one of the banks midwicket and enjoyed – or in their case as Kiwis endured – the whole match from there. They weren’t asked to move it and no one nicked it. In a city. Such is this country.
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| Basin Reserve 1997 |
The bottle shop had the usual refrigerated section for beers and I found a couple of dark ales – not cheap but needs must. Wine wise there was nothing under NZ$20 – a tenner or so - but after an emotionally challenging day I wasn’t overly concerned. I can always find an excuse to spend on grog.
The laptop was hooked up to the telly and we watched something light-hearted to raise our spirits.
Todays journey:
